From iconic houses like Mugler to high fashion sex toy collaborations, the fashion industry has never shied away from a kinky moment.
The Spring/Summer 2024 runway was admittedly not the kinkiest, but the likes of Chet Lo and DI PETSA highlighted the importance of sexual healing and exploration by merging several art forms such as poetry and erotic art.
Recurring themes this season included sex, of course, and the sheer dress trend popularized in 2022. This time, with new innovations that further accentuated the female form, as seen at Blumarine.
Already leaving little to the imagination, SS24 stepped off the runway, as well, with a Shayne x Oliver Pornhub collaboration and fashion film which further dissected themes of sex, vulnerability and healing.
Here are our favorite kinky moments from this season.
Sheer “Naked” Dresses
Sheer dresses, or shall we say, naked dresses, dominated the runway yet again this season.
From Valentino‘s sheer dresses that sculpted to individual silhouettes to ROTATE’s knee-length dresses that tapped fetish masks, the trend was undeniably a staple.
However, Blumarine elevated the naked trend to new heights by ditching sheer and using plastic.
Shayne Oliver x Pornhub Fashion Film
Standing at the intersection of art, sex and fashion is Pornhub and Shayne Oliver’s Anonymous Club capsule collection.
Stepping off the runway for SS24, the collaboration featured a fashion film unveiling themes of community and vulnerability, as well as BDSM-inspired garments for sex-positive enthusiasts.
Han Kjøbenhavn x Sinful Sex Toy Collaboration
For the first time, Kjøbenhavn collaborated with Scandinavian sex toy brand, Sinful to create a range of accessories.
Inspired by the curvature and colorways of Sinful’s sex toy meant to mimic oral sex, creative director Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen designed a flared mesh dress with a sculptural neck piece.
“The darkness, the texture, the emotion within Sinful breathes so well into the world I’m in,” she said of Sinful’s playmates.
Confirming the connection between the two, Sinful’s founder Mathilde Machowski stated “Fashion and pleasure are totally connected. It’s all about exploring and being playful.”
Butt Bags
Released in 2021, Grace Ling’s iconic Butt Bags creatively bring sex positivity into one’s wardrobe.
In a former interview with hypebae, Ling spoke to the playful, yet empowering essence of the bag. “There’s also something about the femininity of a body.
Some of the jackets are very covered up with little skin exposed, but there is a Butt Bag hung on the outside of the jacket.
The butt is being looked at, but separate from the wearer. It is for me a way to display wit and playfulness through the accessories while maintaining sophistication and maturity in the garments.
There is an odd sense of empowerment in that, it’s a different kind of sexy.”
DI PETSA’s “Reflection of Venus”
Greek designer Dimitra Petsa unpacked the “Reflection of Venus” this season, aiming to heal the erotic archetype of Venus.
“It represents the way one’s body becomes increasingly sexualized as you grow up, thrusting you out into the world to experience and discover self-love,” the designer’s show notes stated.
Always tapping its signature of inclusivity, model Richie Shazam walked the runway, alongside models of all shapes and sizes.
Chet Lo’s Sexual Awakening
Aiming to heal his repressed sexuality, caused by a sex-negative culture, Asian-American designer Chet Lo placed sexual healing at the forefront of Fashion Month.
Featuring garments with Shunga prints, an ancient Japanese erotic art form, and Shibari, traditional rope bondage, Lo found healing at the intersection of art, sex and fashion.
Mia Khalifa’s runway debut at KNWLS
Jewelry designer and former adult entertainer Khalifa made her runway debut at KNWLS‘ London Fashion Week presentation.
Closing the show in a midnight blue gown, Khalifa perfectly complemented the brand’s collection for fearless and edgy femmes.
K.nglsey‘s “Mind, Body and Hole.”
Creative director Kingsley Gbadegesin’s NYFW showcase was a queer, “grown and sexy” take on the scholastic aesthetic.
This fantasy “served hoe” as the show notes cite, featuring a ready to wear “Mind. Body. Hole” sweatshirt and “sterling silver PrEP pill jewelry.”
Sex — in music
Sensuality made an appearance in the form of music.
First, at Mirror Palais’ New York showcase where models walked to the highly controversial “World Class Sinner/I’m a Freak” on The Idol soundtrack.
Next, at T Label’s runway debut which was also attuned to kinky sounds: Jeremih’s classic “Fuck You All the Time.”
ROTATE’s Take on Fetishwear
Inspired by the classic aesthetic of Parisian hotels, ROTATE’s SS24 collection was designed with one-night-only in mind.
From nipples covered with tassels to fetish masks reimagined, this season was an ode to the “sophisticated rebel.”
Brand founders Thora Valdimars and Jeanette Madsen told hypebae, “We think that it is incredibly empowering to show skin and embrace your body.
Not only is it sexy, but it is also rebellious and courageous. It is a power move, and you can see a big shift in power dressing this season in general (however that looks to the wearer).”
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